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Dry Washing BiodieselION Exchange ResinsION exchange resins are high tech man made resins that are capable of trapping soap molecules on the surface of a resin bead. Different ION exchange resins work in different ways and use different techniques to clean the biodiesel. All of them generate a new waste stream, the spent beads. Available ResinsA partial listing of the available resins:
Pros and ConsEach resin works in a slightly different way so there are some fine differences between them. They are enough alike from a Homebrewer’s perspective that we can lump them all together for this discussion. They all do work and remove the soaps from your biodiesel but they are not very economical using our standard processing techniques. These resins are designed to work best on biodiesel with less than 500ppm of soap. That’s how much you usually have after the first or second wash. Commercial biodiesel producers using new oil can meet the 500 ppm level in unwashed biodiesel. Homebrewers using or standard single stage base method on WVO will have three to five times that much soap in our unwashed biodiesel. That means we would be using it three to five times faster than a commercial biodiesel producer. To make it economical, you would have to wash using some other ’wash’ technique first to bring your soap levels down. The manufactures typically recommend an acid eserification stage if you plan to use waste cooking oil. Some of these can be partially regenerated using either methanol or an acid, but all of them eventually become used up or spent. Once spent, you will have to find a way to dispose of the waste. With the exception of the Lewatit GF202 the resins remove the soap by replacing the metal ion in the soap with a hydrogen ion forming FFA that is passed through the resin and left in the biodiesel. That means that if you have high soap levels, you will have a high acid number. You can check the acid number by doing a titration on your finished biodiesel. There is no public data available relating soap content to finished acid numbers. Two problems that home brewers run into when using resins are "compaction" and "fouling". Compaction is caused when the beads grow in size over their normal lifespan and do not move up the tube adjusting for the increase in size. Compaction can cause ruptured resin tubes, burst resin beads, and decreasing flow rates and eventually stopping the flow altogether. Compaction requires a resettling of the beads to resolve the problem. This can sometimes be accheived by backflowing biodiesel through the bed at a high rate to upset the beads. Fouling is a coating of the top layer of resin with contaminates, typically glycerin or undissolved soaps, that result in flow stoppages. It is usually prevented by a combination of increased settling times and filtering. Backflushing with biodiesel or methanol are the usual methods for resolving fouling. Fouling can be prevented by giving the biodiesel enough time to clear up before passing over to the resin bed. In unwashed biodiesel that has had no water introduced, the cloudiness is caused by soap particles not dissolved in the biodiesel. Settling is the cheap way to remove the cloudiness. A major factor in getting settling to work is having a wide temperature variation. As the biodiesel chills at night more soaps become undissolved and fall out to the bottom. When it warms up in the daytime, the soaps dissolve back into the biodiesel and clear up. If you are settling in a location with little or no temperature variation you may never clear up. To get it to clear up you will either have to filter the undissolved soaps out with a 10-20 micron filter or you can heat the biodiesel until it clears, usually 10 degrees F or so. DowexTM DR-G8 LEWATIT® GF 202 AmberliteTM BD10dryTM PUROLITE® PD206 Cornelius Keg ION Exchange Resin TowerSunbreak Biofuels posted this dry wash design on the Infopop forum. We’ve added it here with their permission. The Amberlite user guide calls for the following:
![]() Projected flow rate of 10 gallons/hour. The column needs to be able to handle pressure up to 25 psi, be easy to clean and be made of a biodiesel compatible material. For an added bonus the perfect column would be practical for the typical backyard brewer, be constructed from readily available materials and scalable for the small scale producer. Cornelius kegs, used to dispense fountain drinks, are stainless, handle up to 125 psi, have a large hatch in the top, and have dry connect fittings with a pickup tube routed straight to the bottom They are readily available used for about $25 each.. There are two versions of the Cornelius keg, a 22" keg and a 27" keg. The short one has a height to width ratio of 2.44:1 and the tall one is 3.38:1. The 22" keg will hold about 5.8 gallons, while the 27" keg will hold about 5.3 gallons. Either would allow for 10 lbs of resin to be added to each column and still have sufficient room for 300% expansion. 10 lbs of resin gives a maximum flow rate of 3.6 gallons per hour. Three in parallel will meet the 10 gallon per hour target with a 10.8 gph maximum. Basic three keg Design
Filling the keg
(2)Starting with an 10" square of #80 mesh stainless, cut a 9" circle with scissors. (3)Use a hole punch to put a 1/4" hole in the middle of the screen. (4)Install a small rubber grommet in the newly created hole. (5)Cut a piece of the cheapest flimsy garden hose you can find to the exact inside circumference of the keg. (6)Curl screen and place inside keg and carefully place at bottom over settled marbles. (7)Replace stainless pickup tube, oil to easily slide through screen grommet. (8)Let garden hose act as a bumper around the perimeter of the screen. (9)Add 1.5 gallons clean biodiesel to keg. (10)Pour 2 lbs increments of Amberlite in top of keg, rotate as you pour to disperse the Amberlite around the outer perimeter of the screen. This will also help squash the garden hose to the outer edge under the weight of the Amberlite. (11)After you add 10 lbs of Amberlite backflush the column at 2.5 gph with clean biodiesel. If there is the slightest bit of methanol or soap in the biodiesel used to flush it will precipitate out and clog up the resin bed. After two hours and all air being purged, the column is ready to use. For each Cornelius Keg you will need:
Economics and Final NotesAt the time of this writing each keg tower cost about $130 for the parts and resin and will clean about 320 to 640 gallons of biodiesel. That translates into 20 to 40 cents per gallon for the first load of resin and about 11 to 22 cents per gallon starting with your first resin change. 18 cents per gallon for the first load and 7 cents per gallon on the refills have been reported. Your mileage may vary. Please note that this design is based on settling for a week or more before passing it through the resin. Incomplete settling will shorten the life of the resin. Experience has shown that settling for four weeks without using a prewash results in the resin lasting for 800-1100 gallons. The resin depends on methanol being present to act as a solvent for the soap. If the soap is not completely dissolved in the biodiesel, it will tend to clog up the resin. Settling is the best way to reduce the soaps to the level that the methanol can properly dissolve. Longer settling times will reduce the mass of soap in the biodiesel. One test to determine if enough of the soaps have settled out is that the biodiesel will be clear, not cloudy or turbid. If you use your top gravity tank as a settling tank, it would be better to use a standpipe and take biodiesel out of the middle of the tank rather than from the bottom. That way any soaps and glycerin that has settled in the tank will not be deposited in the resins, shortening the life of the resin.
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