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Biodiesel Tutorial

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Multi-Drum Dispenser Print E-mail

Crossposted from: The Collaborative Biodiesel Tutorial
by Kent Bullard of socalbug.org

 

SOCALBUG MULTI-DRUM BIODIESEL DISPENSING SYSTEM (patent pending)


Biodiesel Fuel Transfer Pump

When you finish your biodiesel you might want to set up a dispensing station like this one. An inexpensive drum dolly can make it easier to move the fuel to the vehicle. A Multi-Drum system is beneficial not only for the increased capacity but the biodiesel also has some undisturbed settling time before use.

These instructions are for installing the system on Polyethylene drums. The recommended drums are the white or natural colored ones. This allows for easier observation of liquid level and inspection of the drum interior for foreign objects or contamination. Of course, I first bought blue drums, so the photos show them.

This system is designed for outdoor use.  Black pipe fittings have been replaced with galvanized fittings to prevent rust. Galvanized fittings do tend to shorten the life expectancy of biodiesel in long term storage,  However, since the biodiesel is only coming in contact with the galvanized parts as the biodiesel is being pumped into your vehicles' fuel tank, there should be no problem with using it here.

 


BIODIESEL TRANSFER PUMP ASSEMBLY

 

  • Remove the 2" NPT (National Pipe Thread) Bung cap from the drum and thread in the 2" Male camlock fitting until tight. (Both Drums)
  • Thread the expandable suction tube into the bottom of the pump. Using a little of the gray thread seal from the tube. (use thread seal on all pipe thread fittings) Alternatively, use a 1" PVC male adapter and 1" PVC Pipe cut to length to reach the bottom of the drum (with a 45-degree cut on the bottom). The problem with the metal expandable tube is that it is messy when it compresses and has a tendency to rust after a while and make your fuel rusty.
  • Thread the 2" Female camlock fitting onto the bottom of the pump.
  • Slip the pump onto the drum and clamp the cam arms to hold the pump in place which will make the rest of the assembly easier.
  • Install a 3/4" galvanized street elbow in the top of the pump, tighten until it is facing to the left.
  • Thread the filter assembly (3/4" nipple) into the street elbow on top of the pump. Use a large wrench on the aluminum filter housing. Be careful to not use the plastic filter cover as a leverage point. Tighten until the filter unit is facing down and to the left of the pump. This will counter balance the weight of the pump and hose.
  •  
  • Thread the hose assembly into the downward facing street elbow of the filter assembly. For now, I would just use the nozzle that came with the pump.
  • On the back of the pump, remove the junction box cover. Install the wire box connector and the power cord and wire according to the wiring diagram which should of come with pump.
  • Unscrew the plastic filter cover and using your finger tip, wipe a little motor oil or biodiesel on the black o-ring gasket to seal it. (sort of like when you change an oil filter). Make sure the cartridge filter is threaded in hand tight and reinstall the filter cover.

DRUM VENTS

 

    For Both Drums
  • Remove the 2" coarse thread (Buttress) bung plug.
  • Using care and a sharp knife or small chisel, cut out the bottom of the 3/4" threaded plug in the middle of the bung plug.
  • Reinstall the bung plug into the drum and tighten until refusal.
  • Thread the 3/4" white PVC street elbow into the middle of the 2" bung plug.
  • Without using PVC cement (to facilitate removal at a later date) slip the PVC valve assemble into the street elbow assuring that it is a tight fit.
  • Make sure that the valve is positioned with the handle upwards and the vent elbow is facing downwards to prevent water entry. Confirm this by aligning the black lines on the street elbow and valve body. Also make sure the vent is positioned to allow air movement. This is why the elbow has been customized (at great engineering cost) to assure airflow.

Finalization

 

  • Use silicon sealant to fill the top of all bung openings of the drums to prevent standing water. Note in photo above
  • If the drums do not have drilled water drains on the top, use a 3/8" drill to provide at least 5 drain holes around the top of the drum. Note the drain hole in the upper left corner of the photo.
  • Remove the pump, fill the drum with product, connect a power supply and you are now a genuine home edition fuel station.

Using the Dispensing System

 

  • Open the vent valve to allow air passage into the drum while fueling.
  • Insert the nozzle into the fuel tank or container.
  • Lift the pump lever to turn the pump on.
  • When finished turn the pump off, disconnect the power supply and close the vent valve.
  • Coil the hose on the drum.
  • A best management practice is to keep the drums out of direct sunlight (say the north side of the building so the fuel is not exposed to temperature extremes). Also cover the top of the drums with a piece of plywood or other material to shed any rain or debris. Ideally, the drums would be placed in a small shed or lean-to to provide them with some protection from the elements.
  • Use the 2" dust cap to keep the drum sealed when there is no pump installed.
  • When changing the pump from one drum to another, first remove the dust cap from the new drum. Then open the locking arms on the pump base, and with the hose coiled over the pump, lift with both hands until just before the dart clears the drum. Stop for a moment to let drain, then with one hand on the pump, use your other hand to grab the pump dart about mid way. Lift the pump up and out, and than insert it into the new drum, lower and lock the arms. Be sure to install the dust cap on the empty drum and keep the vent closed to prevent moisture contamination.


Parts List For two drums

Drums and Pump

  • 2 EA High Density Polyethylene Drum, 55 Gallon, Closed Head, Natural Color, such as McMaster part # 43235T5
  • 1 EA 110 0r 12 volt Tuthill/FillRite type pump
  • Optional replacement for the pump's metal extension tube:
    • 5 feet, 1" PVC Pipe schedule 40 (Pump Dart)
    • 1 EA 1" PVC Male Adapter (Bottom of Pump)

Pump Assembly

Bung adapters and caps

  • 1 EA Polypropylene Camlock Coupling, Female NPT x Socket, D Coupling, 2" Sz, SS Levers, such as McMaster Part # 5535K32 (For base of Pump)
  • 2 EA Polypropylene Camlock Coupling Dust Cap, (Socket), 2" Size, # 5535K44
  • 2 EA Polypropylene Camlock Coupling, Male NPT x Plug, F Adapter 2" Size, such as McMaster Part # 5535K24

Filter and plumbing

  • 1 EA Filter Housing such as Baldwin B10AL
  • 1 or 2 EA Replacement elements such as Baldwin PF10
  • 2 EA 3/4" Galvanized Street Elbows
  • 2 Ea 1"-3/4" Galvanized Bushings
  • 1 EA 3/4" x 3" Long Galvanized Nipple

Drum Vents

  • 2 EA 3/4" PVC Male Adapter
  • 2 EA 3/4" PVC threaded x slip Street Elbow
  • 2 EA 3/4" PVC Slip Valves
  • 2 EA 3/4" PVC Slip Elbow
  • 1 to 2 feet, 3/4" PVC Pipe schedule 40 (for joining elbows to the valve)

Supplies

  • Pipe dope for galvanized fittings
  • PVC solvent and glue
  • Silicone sealant for drum vents


Related Links

BUILD AN OFF-GRID, SOLAR-POWERED BIODIESEL PUMP  alt
from Piedmont Biofuels

More Fuel Dispensing Ideas

 

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WARNING

Making Biodiesel requires the use of flammable, toxic liquids and strong caustics to make a fuel. No matter what safety precautions are put in place or what equipment you use, making biodiesel will never be a safe hobby and can place you, your property, and your family at risk of injury or even death. Make Biodiesel at your own risk.

 

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