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Written by Rickdatech
Cone Bottom tanks are popular among some biodiesel enthusiasts. This is mostly due to the fact that so many commercially sold biodiesel processors have been made from them. Fuelmeister was the company that popularized this style of processor made using two inductor or cone bottom tanks. Fuelmeister and other companies used them because they were so inexpensive. When purchased in bulk they cost a tenth of the price of metal tanks.
They come in two varieties. The standard inductor tank with a bulkhead adapter bolted in the bottom, and the full draining type with female pipe threads cast into the bottom of the tank. The bulkhead adapter is used to convert a hole in the flat part of the bottom of the tank into pipe threads. This type will retain a cup or two of liquid between the adapter and the tank. The full draining type has a smooth transition from tank to drain pipe that lets all the liquid drain out.
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Written by Rickdatech
Water blocking fuel filters are both popular among homebrewers and commonly misused. They are typically 10 micron spin on filters like this goldenrod waterblock filter and are capable of capturing free and emulsified water, but not dissolved water. They have some water absorbing material, typically cotton, wrapped around the fitler. As the filter absorbs water, the water absorbing material will swell, blocking the flow. Eventually, once it has reached its limit of water, it will go into bypass mode. The filter is spring loaded and when it is fully clogged, the resulting backpressure will overcome the spring pushing the filter out of the way so fuel can go around the clogged filter. It only takes a few tablespoons of water to clog one of these filters.
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Written by Rickdatech
Biodiesel will absorb some water from the air over time. If you live in a humid area, water will encroach into your fuel dispensing drum and spoil all that hard work you put into getting it super dry. However if you put a desiccant vent on your drum, you can actually make your biodiesel even drier.
Air moves in and out of the drum on a daily cycle as the drum is heated in the daytime, It expels air and draws in air at night when it cools. Air also moves in and out of the drum when we add biodiesel to or pump biodiesel from the drum. All this air gets forced through our desiccating vent, drying the air in the drum and keeping water from contaminating our biodiesel.
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Written by Rickdatech
Since Biodiesel is such a good solvent, any trash that gets in the tank will eventually end up in the fuel filter. It can be from old gunk from petrol diesel usage, or from when we buy diesel at the pump for winter blending. If it catches us off guard, we can end up changing out a fuel filter on the side of the highway, in the snow. Some late model vehicles have fuel filter sensors that will let you know, one way or the other, if your filter is starting to clog. You can ask your diesel mechanic if your specific vehicle has a fuel filter sensor and how the car will notify you of an impending clogged filter.
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Fuel Farmer from Infopop built this cubie crusher and bailer.
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Written by Rickdatech
Fires are the bane of making biodiesel. When they happen they can be devistating. The three most important safety rules are "don't process in your home", "keep combustibles to a minimum", and "properly dispose of oily rags".
Not processing in your home logically includes not processing in your shop or garage. The best place is in a disposable shed away from buildings.
Keeping combustibles to a minimum is harder than you might think. Try anyway. Don't forget that we are making fuel. The more fuel we have on hand, the bigger and hotter the fire and the harder it is to put out.
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How to make your own biodiesel at home
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